All of this makes perfect sense, except I think redline needs to be addressed,
as it's also a determining factor in how much a rod can handle. Stock 4efte
revs to 7300 which yields a piston speed of 3688 ft/min.
Stock FHE revs to the same 7300 but gives a piston speed of 4167 ft./min.
As a rule of thumb, and I say rule of thumb because as this thread demonstrates
all rods aren't created equal, most factory rods shouldn't be allowed to exceed
4000 ft./min.
So in theory a 4efte could be revved to 7800 rpm and be under 4000, and an FHE
should be limited to 7000 to remain under 4000.
Since the 4efte is factory boosted, maybe that's why they allow it some headway
in piston speed, and since the FHE is NA factory, that's why the hugh rods and
the slightly above 4000 piston speed.
In a boosted 1.5 block situation it would seem a good safety buffer would be to
limit piston speed to below 4000 since we have introduced cylinder pressures
the factory didn't factor in. Just some observations. This information is
theoretical and not trial and error like that presented by GT and Sleepyrz.
It's by no means difinitive, just something to think about.
that's definitely a plausible theory (definitely has a lot
of math and physics behind it
).
we currently have a FHTE down here hitting the limiter at 7500 rpms for the
past couple months with no issues thus far. i definitely like trial and error
over theory (not knockin the theory Boosted...you know we're cool
).
you're not having second thoughts, are you?
if ur talkin about boost, the pistons &
head gasket can last up to 21psi (if u have an immaculate tune & engine)
rods are only good for up to 20psi @ 7200rpms...
as such the head gasket is good quality, but as boost is increased since its
made of composite materials the bit in between the bores tends to collapse
& ull suffer blow bye with alot of boost...
the 4e piston itself is relatively strong if u have a gud tune @ keep stock
timing... but the rings are the real problem as with the added heat they arethe
1st to go..
another thing not to b overlooked are the Rod bearings.. when a bearing is
slipped usually the ones on the rods are the problem & when changing the
timing belt once every 60k or so, its best to change the engine bearings as
well.. the main bearings (crank bearings) are much stronger & rarely fail..
unless u get oil starvation 
the thrust washers are also an item to b considered as they have alot of stress
on them & they keep the crank in place.. as thay are the only thing that
hold the crank from moving forward & back.. so good idea to change those as
well...
as iv said b4 its not the boost that kills rods, but revs... they too have a
limit & if u look @ the 4e rods ull laugh as they look more like paper
weights than anythign else... so if ur going over 20psi & above 7200rpms
change the rods... BUT dont forget to change the valve springs as they wont b
any good over the redline... as the valve will b bouncing soo much @ hi rims
that it wont sit in place & u could risk the valve bouncing onto a piston..
its rare but it could happen...
the cylinder head is amazing in its design but as ur quest for power goes up
its a good idea to give it a lill port n polish as it will help breathing
greatly...
a few other minor things to consider when running a high end setup is the
shafts... & the diff... rarely a diff goes but if ur spending soo much
money & going for 300bhp.. get urself an uprated lsd.. as ull do ur shafts
& cv joints a favour.. they may last longer... sadly there is only one
propper company in Japland that does shafts for us.. but they are incredibly
expensive...
I
believe its the 3t 1.5ltr from a corsa or gp turbo that mates to the 5efe and
is a 212mm surface area.
but apprently the 3e
flywheel is the one were after.
If
Rosscoe reckons a 3E-TE flywheel fits then perhaps it would be an idea to find
one and see if it does the trick.
i have a 3ETE
flywheel and it bolts onto my 5EFE crank
3e is out of the
tercel and corolla II i think
First, the 4EFTE tranny bolts up to any 5EFE or 5EFHE block. The difference is
the flywheel. Most 5EFES/5EFHES use a 200mm flywheel which has a different bolt
pattern to the 4EFTE 212mm flywheel. A few 5EFHES came with a 212mm flywheel
which would allow you to reuse the 4EFTE clutch kit. These flywheels are a bit
rare, you would need to contact Paul on Toyota GT Turbo and he should be able to
locate a 5EFE 212mm flywheel. If you decide to stay with the 200mm 5EFE/5EFHE
flywheel you can use the ACT T019 pressure plate or TRD equivalent since you
are in JP.
Took me ages to find out the actaul capacity of a 1.3 and 1.5 egine. The capacities are 1331 and 1498 respectively.The compression ratio of the 5efhe is 9.8 to 1
Ross racing 74mm pistons -
Job card # 67268, stock compression ratio 8.2:1
Job card # 102810 low compression 8.0:1 pistons
Total Cost :- $557 US
( pistons $424 US, chamfer pins $39.12 US, pin fitting $14.48 US, total seal rings $79.00 US)
I got these back in 2002 when the conversion rate was 50.4US cents which put them over 1k australian so it attracted more customs fees but here is an indicator as to what it cost to land them
Ordering :- via Performance Wholesale or www.rosspistons.com
Cylinder head bolt - first, 500kg/cm ; second, turn 90 degrees
Cylinder head x camshaft bearing cap - 130kg/cm
Cylinder head x number 2 idler pulley - 280kg/cm
Cylinder head x cylinder head cover - 70kg/cm
Camshaft timing pulley x camshaft - 510kg/cm
Cylinder block x number 1 idler pulley - 185kg/cm
Cylinder block x crankshaft bearing cap - 580kg/cm
Cylinder block x rear oil seal retainer - 75kg/cm
Cylinder block x oil filter union - 250kg/cm
Connecting rod cap x connecting rod - 400kg/cm
Crankshaft x crankshaft pulley - 1550kg/cm
phew ! ... I've taken these settings from the 63026 Toyota Japan
Engine Repair manual (4E-FTE) and cross referenced them to the RM238E
(english 5E-FE) Paseo Engine Repair manual ... guess what ! ...
they're the same settings except for the Cylinder head bolt (450kg/cm
for EL44 Paseo, yet in Japanese manual they specify 500kg/cm for all
4E motors and the 5E-FHE !)
Second you cannot use the 4EFTE crank in the 5EFE/5EFHE block because of the
block height which is one inch taller than the 4EFTE. The only way to use the
4EFTE crank, you would need to line bore the 5EFHE block, make taller custom
rods and custom pistons. To get a lower compression 5EFHE, swap the pistons for
the 4EFTE pistons which with the 5EFHE cylinder head should give you a
compression ratio of 8.4:1