Steady State Tuning is how an engine dyno operates it makes tuning very quick and easy to do firstly select the RPM

Dyno Tuning Procedure

Steady State Tuning is how an engine dyno operates

it makes tuning very quick and easy to do

firstly select the RPM / Road speed you wish to tune

now drive the engine up to this load speed and apply the accelerator till you find the load site you wish to tune e.g 14 psi

now adjust the AFR till it is slightly rich on the dyno screen
then start to advance the Ignition timing one step at a time

you can see the HP climb as the ignition is advanced - the power will start to drop off when you over advance the timing and eventually the engine will start to det
i would recommend that you keep an eye on the AFR all the time incase it starts to lean

It is almost impossible to tune a car on the road for many reasons

the car acclerates through the sties too quickly
you can not tell if ignition timing is optimised
its VERY VERY Dangerous

recently I ran a car that had been tuned on the road - it had a massive lean spike at approx 4000 rpm - then ran rich again. The owner had not been able to see this lean spike on the road because it happened so quickly and his afr's fluctutated before he could see them.

something else I have found with cars that have been tuned on the road - sometimes they det under some load conditions. This is because the tuner has not been able to simlutale some loads on the road, and has had to guess rather than taking the car to that load site and tuning it correctly

A good Dyno can simlulate any load condition - even flat out in 5th gear up a hill into the wind !! - try and do that on the road !!!

Imagine towing a trailer with a car that is not properly tuned !!!

what i like to do is use steady state until about 5~6k rpm. this should give you a pretty good base. And you should be boosting 15~25psi.
Then after you already have a pretty good base start making pulls but limit the rpm. So make your first pull revving to 6k and log everything!
Make necessary adjustments. next pull bring it to 6500/7000 rpm and slowly work your way until redline. Remember things happen very quickly with high hp cars so be very alert! Do this with conservative timing.

After you've made runs up to redline and fuel is dialed in now you can begin tuning ignition. use the dyno by measuring torque but also pay attention to your spark plugs. I like reading them after each pull to ensure everything is going ok. I also log egt's. Meth can be very tricky. The more fuel you take away the more power it makes and they'll be very little room for errors. Same with timing. it'll keep making power as you add timing and sometimes it won't let you know when you've gone to far.

So to answer your question NO I wouldn't try to hold it at 10k and 50psi and try to steady state it! At least not with fagile drag motors...

I have tuned marine engines(1300hp) at redline and full boost steady state. Those motors take a beating in the water and if they can't survive that on an engine dyno they probably wont' last to long in the water either.

A word on Exhaust Gas Temperatures

Turbo guys sometimes see in excess of 1800 degF at full load. Remember what EGT measures: It has relatively little to do with combustion temps, but is strictly an indication of how much of the energy of the fuel goes out the exhaust. Typically a spark ignited engine at WOT converts about 25-30% of the energy contained in the fuel into power at the crankshaft. Of the remaining 70-75% one part goes out the exhaust as heat and kinetic energy, the other part goes as heat in the cooling system.

Running non optimal AFR lowers the part that goes to the crankshaft, along with two other parts because less energy is extracted from the fuel. Running too advanced raises the part that goes into the cooling system and lowers the part that goes out the exhaust (also lowers the part to the crankshaft). That's why during knock the EGTs drop. More heat then goes into the cooling system and piston and less is leftover for the exhaust. Running too retarded raises the part that goes out the exhaust and lowers the part that goes to the cooling system (also lowers the part to the crankshaft).

If you are running boost the engine produces more power because more fuel is converted to mechanical power, but also more is converted into heat into the cooling system and exhaust. Even if you balance that energy distribution perfectly, your EGTs and CHTs will go up with more power as you have not made the engine more efficient, only raised the energy levels.