REBUILD PRICE LIST

Here is a pic of the head being prepared.Note that the shims have been labelled to facilitate an easy install.

I have started the 5efhe rebuild.The first order of business was securing the engine bearings.These are markeed on the block and the crankshaft. There need to be added together to give the grade of the bearing. In my case I need 4,3,3,2,2. I also tested the oil clearance to ensure that they were within spec. The numbers on the main bearings were equal to what was calculated.

The con rod bearings were however different to the calculated values. All of them were grade three bearings. I have installed the crank and torque the main bearing bolts to 42ft lbs. the crank now spins freely. The conrod oil clearance need to be checked to see if the grade three bearing are suitable. The greade three bearing are $40 dollars more than the grade 2. The conrod bearings have been torqued at 29lbs/ft.

I have fitted the piston rings onto all four pistons. The pistons had to be cleaned to remove carbon from the ring lands. I have used the ring tool to put pistons in the block.

I will be looking for a rebuild kit shortly along with an oil pump.

I have secured the oil pump and the rebuild kit.The rebuild is a non genuine rebuild kit and guess what. It is a waste of time. These kits do not fit accurately especially the rear crankshaft oil seal and the oil pump o-ring. I will be returning the kit on Monday.

never buy a non genuine overhaul kit.

The guy refunded my for the kit and I was able to get a genuine seal from the toyota dealer.It fit perfectly with any problems what soever.

The oil pump fitted with an oem oring and front crankshaft seal

The next step is to have the oil pan drilled for the oil return line from the turbo. I will be also installing the tension and idler etc

The idler and tensioner installed along with the crank pulley.The pulley may have to come off to allow fitting of the guard.

The next step will be preparing the head. This invloves seating the valves putting in the rings etc

The valves were seated before installing the springs. This is an extremely trick jobs and required great skill an patience

The valves installed and are ready to test for leaks

I am not 100 percent comfortable with the lapping of the valves. As I am getting a very small amount of gas leaking pass them. I spoke to a machinist and he said this was acceptable and will seal once the engine is worked.

The head is on and the cams will be installed shortly after the bolts are torqued correctly.

The cams are now installed. The dots at the back were aligned. There are two dots on the intake cam and one on the exhaust.The camshaft seals are in place.

This pic shows the timing belt mounted. It shows how it passes around the oil pump drive, around idler pulley no2, over the camshaft sprocket and behind the ilder puller no 1.

The oil pan is on.The oil pickup had to be bolted in place first. A oil relocator from a 4efte has to be used. This requires the 5efe block to be drilled and tapped with three holes where the oil filter normally goes. The 4efte flywheel also has to be drilled and tapped with the 5e pattern. Lastly the air intake sensor needs to be tapped on the intake manifold..

The inlet manifold has been bolted in place. The engine mount should be in place before the guard is in place. As you can see the guard was removed to allow this.

This is the existing engine bay. The 4e will be removed and replaced with the 5e

Clutch and Flywheel